All Wheel Drive Auto: Independent Seattle Subaru Service


Subaru Low Oil Level Light

Subaru 3.6r Oil Level Sensor

The current model Subaru Outback  with the 3.6l H6 incorporates something Subaru has never done and that’s a low oil level sensor and warning indicator (yellow in color).  This is not to be confused with the low oil pressure light (red) that has existed on all EJ platform Subaru Vehicles.

Subaru 3.6r Oil Level Sensor
Subaru 3.6r Oil Level Sensor

The current production  Subaru 2.5l NA 4 cylinder models are required to use full synthetic oil, the current production Subaru H6 is not, even though Subaru has specified oil change intervals of 7000 miles for “normal use”.  The low oil level sensor is there to prevent engine failure due to low oil levels, as Subaru is anticipating oil consumption in between oil changes at the increased service interval and knowing many won’t really understand if how they use the car fits into the definition of normal or severe use.  So for the first time on a Subaru your Subaru is checking its oil for you!

One thing I want to point out is that when changing the oil if the key is turned to the on position when the oil level is low, or after filling it back up with oil  after an oil change and when starting the vehicle you are too quick with the key the low oil light will come on and stay on for a drive cycle even though the oil level is full.  If you change the oil your self its a good idea to turn the key to the run position once you have filled it up with oil, and let the system   recognize the oil is full, (this should take about 20 seconds) prior to starting the Subaru.

In the event this does happen to you all you can do is drive it for a bit, shut it off and restart it and it should go off on its own.


Thanks for reading




35 Responses

  1. Justin,
    I posted this in the reply section of a previous post on this page, the I saw this section so I entered it again,

    Justin, first great site and just to follow on with the low oil light thread. My 2013 2.5 is having the low oil light come on after running at highway speeds for a few miles, and the engine oil level is spot on full. You mentioned a “sticky sensor” may be an issue. My question is this a float type of sensor that could be fouled by debris in the oil – metal in particular?
    I mention this because at 28K the main bearings went bad and Subaru just replaced the short block not the entire engine although the metal fouled oil had been flowing through the engine for miles. There’s been other issues since like a failed chain tensioners (lost the prime) oil pump replacement and overheating..

    Sorry to go on but I thought the history would help. By the way the dealer has been great (Glanzman,in PA)
    Again that for your site it’s really full of great info and helpful hints.

    1. Hello Jim,

      Yes Debris could cause the sensor to give false readings, but than again, they have had some issues without any evidence of Debris. Sorry to hear about the issues, I would request to have them replace the sensor as it’s still under warranty.

      Thanks for the feedback on the Website..


  2. Dear Justin,

    I took delivery of a new 2013 Outback LTD and it has been a severe disappointment. Let me say that I am a seasoned car guy and currently have 19 cars in the stable that range from new to old, foreign to domestic. I either do my own service or have it done by two dedicated and well trained mechanics who have been with me thirty years.
    At first glance the new Subie was a winner. Now, after 23K miles I’d rather push it off a cliff and forget it ever existed.
    The CVT tranny is an overgrown badly designed torque converter that revs up, stays up and the car goes nowhere. I am using a quart if oil every 1,200 miles and I had to be the one to tell the dealer the owners manual states O-20 full synthetic. The oil changes have been at 3K mile intervals with an additional quart as needed between.
    The dealership actually had the balls to tell me all is OK.
    My 2004 Suburban has 240K on it and it uses no oil between 3,500 mile changes and I’ve used synthetic since day one. Several of my other vehicles are the same.
    Let me state there is NO severe service, the Subie has never been off-road and maintenance schedules have been followed to the letter. I even use 92 octane fuel with this four banger.
    Having been an owner of used Subies over the years, I had high hopes for the latest design.
    Whatever group of moronic engineers designed this latest piece of crap should be taken OUTBACK to the firing squad. Or at least be forced to spend time on the highway in this piece of crap as I have done for 23K miles.
    Noisy, unacceptable HVAC, dubious fit and finish, with ill mannered handling and less than stellar dealership issues in Cincinnati does not help to endear me to this car.
    Thankfully, my new Cadillac CTSv will be in next week and I can say goodbye to my somewhat current daily driver.
    Having faithfully read your forum for quite some time, I could only wish we lived where you are. Perhaps you could have worked your magic on this POS and convinced me to keep it.

    30K just doesn’t go as far as it used to.

    1. Hey Bob,

      Congrats on the CTS V!

      Love them myself, but not in the snow and could never pay 75k for 4 wheels to get me to work

      The CVT Trans is one of the ways forward for Subaru in means of trying to achieve better fuel economy as is 0W oil, it wont be for everyone and yes most Dealers know less about the car than you do when they first come out, it’s just a job to them and they learn on it.

      What I can tell you is we service lots of these cars, and most like them at least here in the Seattle area. You would never want to commute in a CTS V here, it would be a lion in a cage.


  3. I have a 2010 Subaru Tribeca. I change the oil every 3000 to 6000 miles. The vehicle has 76000 miles on it and has been consuming oil since it was new. I have found it as much as two and a half quarts low. How low will the oil get before the light comes on? It is my wife’s car and I work overseas so I worry that she might not be as diligent as I am about checking it.

    1. Hi Jim,

      So based on this statement below

      “I change the oil every 3000 to 6000 miles”

      I am at a loss on how to advise you, if it doesn’t start using oil until after the 3000 mile mark maybe the answer to your quandary is change it every 3000 miles.

      Without knowing when it starts using oil and the type of use its difficult to make any real suggestions, as far as how low will trip the low oil level light, as little as one quart when cornering.


  4. I’m seeing the same intermittent low oil light with my 2013 Outback 2.5i 6spd. Each time check the oil and it’s always above the min on the dipstick. Heading to dealer [again] and will ask them to check sensor and advise. I’ll post again with outcome…

  5. I have a 2013 Outback that I bought a little over a year ago. This is our second Subaru, my wife drives an 05 Outback. I do not trust the dealership. The further we got into the sale the more I heard Robby the Robot yelling warning Will Robinson. That and the fact when I got my first free oil change they shorted me a quart. Any way to make a short story long, I have been doing my own oil changes and tire rotations, etc. The owners manuel says change oil every 7000 miles for normal use. As you have stated earlier, normal is not defined. In you expert opinion (you are the current SME) what is a reasonable time frame for changes? I mostly drive higway speeds, 34 miles to work, flat country (eastren North Carolina) with an occasional trip to the mountains. I’m glad I found your site. Already have learned a bunch about headlights and oil levels.

    1. Hello Tony,

      So I drive a 2012 Outback H6, I use 5w30 synthetic blend and change it every 3000 miles. If you have the 4 cylinder model and are using full synthetic oil you can go 5,000 miles based on how you are using the car, but I urge you to check it between oil changes and if it starts to become low, or just as bad turn black and nasty, change it sooner. From there if it stays clean and doesn’t not burn, you may stretch it out if you feel compelled to. Next the climate in which you live needs to be factored in as well, which in your case looks like its pretty mild in winter, but kind of hot in the summer, Id want to start Summer off with fresh oil.

      Hope that helps


  6. This article helped me. It came up with a google search. After doing my own oil change my GF went to leave the next morning and woke me up saying the car’s oil pressure light was on. I looked at it and told her that it was the low oil level light not low oil pressure. I rechecked the level (of course) and told her to take the truck JIC. After I googled this article I remembered asking her to check the mileage on the ODO while the oil was drained which she did by turning the key to the on position. Whats funny is I built this engine and this caught me off guard.

  7. Are you guys checking you oil regularly? Check it every time you fill your tank. This is part of operating a car, just like checking tire pressure

  8. Our new 2013 Outback wagon 2.5i with 4400 miles has had oil level sensor light come on two times. In both instances, pulling over, letting the oil settle down and checking dipstick found the oil level was at about 1/3 of the way from bottom hole to top hole. Both times, the sensor had cleared itself when the car was restarted about 20 minutes later. I will be asking the dealer to replace the sensor since it seems dangerous to ignore it in the future. The good news is that I am paying lots of attention to the oil level, checking it weekly, which is probably a good habit for our other Outback which has more miles.

    1. Hello Ellen,

      Under the right circumstances that is low enough to set the light especially during high speeds, corners or hills, its also your Subaru’s way of telling you that more frequent oil changes or at least adding oil in between oil changes is a must. This could change either for the better or worse with time. It is always a good practice to check the oil in any car you own so yes that’s a great habit to have.

      Hope that helps


      1. Justin, first great site and just to follow on with the low oil light thread. My 2013 2.5 is having the low oil light come on after running at highway speeds for a few miles, and the engine oil level is spot on full. You mentioned a “sticky sensor” may be an issue. My question is this a float type of sensor that could be fouled by debris in the oil – metal in particular?
        I mention this because at 28K the main bearings went bad and Subaru just replaced the short block not the entire engine although the metal fouled oil had been flowing through the engine for miles. There’s been other issues since like a failed chain tensioner (lost the prime) and overheating..

        Sorry to go on but I thought the history would help. By the way the dealer has been great (Glanzman,in PA)
        Again that for your site it’s really help.

  9. Brand new 2013 OUtback manual transmission 2.5i. Less than 3000 miles. Low oil warning light came on several times yesterday – checked oil and it was fine. If I turned off the engine, the light went off and was off for a while, but then came on again. It SEEMS to be a sensor problem maybe with this model since the oil level was normal.

  10. Hello,

    I have a 2012 Outback 3.6r. It has 14,500 miles on it. I have had the oil changed every 3500 to 3750 miles at the dealership using regular 5w 30 oil.

    Last November while on a road trip the oil light came on during a cold start one morning and stayed on. I checked the oil, it seemed a little low so I added a quart and the light went out. As it was due for an oil change I took it to the dealer and mentioned the oil light coming on. The oil was changed and all was well for about a month. The light came on again. I took it into the dealer and they checked the oil. The level was fine. They did a reset on the oil sensor and said that should fix it. It did for about another month then the light came on again. Checked the oil and is was about 1/2 quart low. Took it into the dealer, but the light had gone out in the meantime (as the engine warmed up, I suppose).

    Seems the oil light sensor in this model has a few bugs. Any thoughts?

    1. Hello Everette,

      I own the same car and have higher mileage and do not have that symptom, but I do use Blend.

      1/2 a quart low should not trigger the light, I would think there is a explanation for it and most likely its a sensor or data issue.


  11. Hello Justin, great site. I just purchased 2013 Outback 3.6R and put 1100 miles on it. Love the car. Is it ok to change the oil? I always run Motul synthetic or Amsoil and heard it’s good to change the oil early. Does the 2013 3.6r have any special break in oil that needs to stay in longer? (Dealer wants to change it at 3k miles) Thanks.


    1. I changed the oil on my 2012 3.6r at 1500 and used 5w30 Castrol synthetic blend. You can change it now, and make the switch to synthetic. Do only use the Subaru Oil filter however its got the proper anti drain back, we have found them non existent in some aftermarket filters, it can over time lead to timing chain guide wear.

      Hope that helps


  12. Great site, thank you. I have a 2010 Legacy 3.6R Limited. Wonderful car, but I’ve noticed increased oil consumption (no leak), approximately a quart every 2k miles. The car has 52k on it, has been dealer serviced every 3k miles, since I bought it new. It raised an eyebrow until I began reading the experiences of others, and your sage advice. I’ll bring it up to Subaru on the next servicing, but I’ll probably accept the company usage standard. With my warranty fading, I’m sure they won’t rush to tear it apart. I live in the Catskill Mountain region of NY, and occasionally flip a paddle to engine brake, and cruise at an occasionally immodest speed on the interstates. This is my fifth Subaru, my first six, and the first one to use oil internally, although two became leakers. Will heed your advice, and since I love the car, which runs superbly and even delivers better than advertised mpg’s, I’ll watch it more closely, keep levels up, and stick my head back in the sand..

    1. Not sure what brand of oil is used, but I’ll ask. This oil usage started within the last 15k miles or so, so I’ll also ask them, for laughs, to check the pcv, or any other system, and whatever other brilliant ideas that can be entertained without me being put on the ‘pay-no-mind’ list by Subaru.
      Do you find a brand or viscosity that may be better to use? In the good ole days of nasty Detroit 8 cylinder engines, we used to run & pick up the motor honey of choice, motor rebuild in a can. No, I promise I won’t…
      Thanks again!

  13. Hi Justin,

    I am looking to see if the problems I am having with my Subaru are common. I have a 2012 Subaru 3.6r. I have about 15,000 miles. The first time I was scheduled to go in for an oil change, about a week before I was due, the low oil level light came on. I immediately checked and I was down a quart of oil. I added a quart and took it into the dealership the same week. They said all looked ok and changed the oil. About a week ago, right before I am planning to go to get my oil changed again, the low oil level light came on. I checked the oil and low and behold it was down a quart AGAIN. Due to how the engine runs, etc. I thought that this was not supposed to happen. It seems counter to the design of the car for me to be losing a quart of oil between oil changes. Is this common?
    Secondly, I am wondering if there is a bigger problem because when I turn off the air system in the car there is a tremendous amount of hot air that is pumped into my car. I often have to turn on the AC just to counteract the hot air from what I assume to be the engine. There is so much hot air that if I am driving with the air system off then I keep my vents closed. What are your thoughts? Could these problems be connected.

    I would really appreciate your expert advice, especially before I take it to the dealership.


    Lauren Hudson

    1. Hi Lauren,

      Because you have not mentioned when you are taking it in for an oil change in terms of miles I can only assume you are thinking your car is being used normally and its ok to change it at intervals greater than 3000 miles? Also not knowing how often you change the oil makes it difficult to advise you but generally speaking a quart in between oil changes is normal on most cars especially if you don’t change the oil every 3000 miles. The owners manual does not state the interval is 7000 miles, it states the interval is 7000 miles if you use the vehicle in a normal way without really explaining what normal is.

      Hot air? So I think you need to spend some time with the owners manual and understand the climate control system settings and most importantly the recirc feature.

      The two are not related


  14. Hi Justin,

    I was looking for an 2013 Outback 3.6R but I saw too many complains and problems with automatic transmission. I don’t want to waste 37K on OB if Subaru was not wiling to fix it. It seems that a lot of 2012 models have this problem and the symptoms were minimized but never went away. Complains and dissatisfaction with 2013 models are also growing.

    I talked to few dealers and they claim there is no problem with AT. When I pushed for the answer a bit harder they admitted there was a problem with 2012 models but it was solved for 2013.
    I assume that they don’t want to loose any sales but after consumer buys a lemon it s his problem and not Subaru’s.

    2012 December issue of CR also do not recommend OB, but no reason was given.

    My neighbor bought 2013 OB in September and started to have problem with an AT.
    INo consumer can afford to have a new car to be fixed every few weeks with persistent problem even with a warranty, but what happens after? $$$ screwed!!!

    Could you share your input that may help potential buyers (like me) and maybe Subaru may read it on your website too and hopefully fix this for good. (This is not a noisy ashtray issue with a loose change.)

    What is your experience and opinion about automatic transmission on OB 3.6R for 2010-2013 models?



    I live in San Francisco Bay Area where are many Subaru dealers to pick from.

    1. Hello Andy,

      I own a 2012 Outback 3.6r and have no such issue, there is a logic update or service Service Bulletin # 11-104-11 that addresses a learned issue within the Transmission control Module that affects some models.

      There is no widespread Transmission issue with any Subaru that I am aware of, the Subaru Sales Department would not be privy to any information regarding changes to the 2013 Outback H6, no one is until they have been out for a while. They merely told you what you want to hear.

      If an occasional trip to a Dealership for a logic update here and there will get you bent, you really don’t want a new car, you pick the make and model and go seek that car on a Forum and I promise you will read rants about frequent trips for logic re-flashes. Its the problem with to much technology and it is not a Subaru thing and not to mention a good way to get you back in for customer pay service along with your free reflash.

      Its good that you are researching before you buy, but for every driver that is having an issue, there are hundreds that are not. I cant tell you if you will be satisfied with a 2012, or 2013 Outback H6, I like mine and do not have any of the symptoms you are describing, lastly have you actually driven one that had this issue there’s lots to choose form both new and used?

      Sorry I cant offer more.


      1. I have been reading your website because i changed my oil and I had to push the car out of the way because i had the oil for my Honda not the wife’s 2012 outback 2.5I limited.
        Added my mobile 1 and the light was on. I was nervous until I read the manual. I had to drive the car 6 miles before the light went out. This is not a software glitch it is something someone put into the program on purpose otherwise it would not be in the owners manual. There logic is seriously flawed.
        This outback is a very noisy car and weird vibrations. It was in the other day to repair a non working sunroof, The dealer had it 5 hours and said they needed to order switches and they would call when they were in. The next day I tried the sunroof for kicks and it only mover 4 inches back and that was while using the tilt up switch. Today I did the same test and it worked fine. No new switches or anything. i take office to you saying we should expect these glitches with all cars and flash updates are the norm. I have had Honda Accords since 1998. The only problem I ever had was a transmission at 90K on it and Honda paid for that. The sunroofs always work like they should and they are very quiet.
        By the way I had ot manually close the sunroof and used the tool provided in the car for the task. The crappy screwdriver broke in my hand while trying to close the sunroof and I had to use a nut driver with a 5mm socket. When it got toward the end of the travel i had to use a 6″ ratchet to close it up because it took that much force.
        I don’t know if you work for Subaru or not but I paid more for the outback than my 2012 Accord VL. V6 ex with leather and other than the 4wd it does not hold a candle to the Accord. I would love to buy more Subaru’s in the future for my family but they need to up the quality and some content.

        1. Hello Greg,

          Anytime the key is turned to the on position and the oil level is low enough to trip the switch the low oil level light will come on and stay on for a period of time, it will now reset the second the switch is tripped because there are these things called hills and corners at speed that make oil splash around in the pan and could incorrectly fool the ECM into thinking the oil level was ok when in fact it was still low.

          Load data is one factor the ECM uses in correlation to the switch being reset over a period of time to know the oil level is actually now ok, the other way would be a light that constantly went on and off anytime the switch was tripped. Now that you are aware of it you will know how it works for the future. Out of curiosity, have you ever tried the same with the Honda? Turning the key to the on position to move it with no oil in it than add oil and see what happens?

          Yes when a switch is defective sometimes it will work and sometimes not. Humidity and temperature can all affect a switches function if the contacts were made with excessive clearance.

          I own a 2012 Outback with the H6, and like it. I have also driven the 2012 Accord. Any 6 cylinder is going to feel smoother than a 4 cylinder first of all, so if you would, maybe you could go drive a 2012 Accord 4 cylinder and compare it to the V6 model and see if one feels superior to the other?

          I do not work for Subaru, there is a large disclaimer on the bottom of every page on this website stating that very thing, I happen to work on Subaru’s and try to help owners navigate through ownership. As far as the price you paid, did you compare invoice price on the two models? Is it possible you got a great deal on the Honda and less of a deal on the Outback because they are in high demand.

          The outback is going to fell much more utilitarian than a Honda Accord especially a V6 Vs 4 cylinder with a CVT. Perhaps you might want to drive a 2013 Legacy H6 and see how you feel that compares to the Accord? They are also very similar in price points, the real advantage is the legacy will have AWD and eye sight if you want that feature.

          Lastly I am not aware of any car company that puts much expense into the tool kit that comes with the car,its unfortunate the sunroof has an issue, the tool is there for an emergency, so perhaps it may be best to not use the sunroof until the new switch is installed? If it took that much force most likely the switch diagnoses is incorrect and the motor is actually bound up (which we have seen) and would also explain the intermittent function as well, either way its under warranty and thats the purpose of a warranty is it not.

          They will also replace the tool if you ask, and you should give the tool feedback and any other feedback to a representative for Subaru, they can be reached at 1 800 Subaru 3, just incase you cant find the number in your manual.

          Hope that helps


  15. Justin,

    Just got a phone call from Antelope Valley Subaru, Lancaster, Ca. They said my 2010 2.5l auto Outback, has a internal problem. They replaced the thermostat and did all their normal system checks and couldn’t at first get it to overheat like it has for us. They drove it, let it cool and drove it hard. This is what they said, due to ours overheating twice, out of the 4 times while coming up a 15-20 mile mountain grade. Either a slightly blown headgasket, or cracked head. They said it took them along time to get it to overheat, and when it did, it blew all or most of the radiator fluid into and out of the overflow. I thanked them for taking the extra time to get our Outback to overheat, because my wife and I didn’t want to go through this again anytime soon.

    Good news is that our aftermarket warranty covers both the headgaskets and/or heads. Badnews is it takes them a couple of days to authorize the repair once they recieve the estimate.

    I mentioned to A.V. Subaru that I had been looking on the internet and found your site. I relayed what you wrote in response to my post. They were not offended, but said that is also what they were leaning towards, blown head gasket due to original overheating with the bad fan. They also had another 2010 2.5l in with blown headgaskets, so I have no idea if this is becoming a common problem (I hope not), or blown headgaskets in newer 2.5l’s are secondary due to overheateing from another issue, like our bad cooling fan.

    One a side note, why wouldn’t a check engine light get turned on when a fan doesn’t turn on, or if it ECM can’t sense the fan operating, why not when it reaches a certain temp. We only got a check engine light the last time, along with a cooling/water temp light, the 1st three times only a cooling/water temp light.

    If this repair holds, I think we will be keeping our Outback for awhile longer. But we are already looking foward to a 3.6l one day, hopefully in a few more years they’ll have a 6 speed or even higher auto. Glad to hear you are happy with yours.

    I’ll post what the final outcome is. We appriciate your dedication to your profession and concern for your customers.

    Thank you,

    Jeff and Mindi Bishop

    1. Hi Jeff,

      Thanks for the kind words, I am also glad to learn you are obtaining some help.

      I am aware of the fan situation, and wonder if perhaps this is not being repaired soon enough in some cases and the cooling system is suffering as a result, but only time will tell the story. The check engine light does not come on at this time for a failed fan until it takes way to long to cool the engine, other wise known as fan “on time” or duty cycle. There is no monitoring system for every component only ones that could affect the emissions of the vehicle, which is really what the check engine light is about and much less to do with any function of the engine.

      I thank you for following up.


  16. Justin, You have a great website, If I lived near the Seattle/Tacoma area you would be my shop. I currently have a 2010 2.5l, auto trans Outback, it is now in the shop for the 4th time in 6 weeks, same problem, OverHeating. My wife and I love the Outback, even bought a Baja after the Outback due to how much we were impressed with Subaru’s product. Outback has 79k, oil changed every 7-8k with Mobile 1 full synthetic (do it at home, no leaks of any kind), never any mechanical issues, we have aftermarket extended warranty we purchased new with vehicle. Now after reading your headgasket II article, our Outback seems to have your discription #3 headgasket failure. Each time it has overheated, my wife has pulled over and turned off the car quickly. It has boiled over into the overflow, pooped over flow cap, steamed all over the place and radiator dry. Three times I meet her and filled with 50/50 antifreeze and driven it to Antelope Valley Subaru, Lancaster Ca. First they replaced a fan that was not operating, 2nd time they said radiator cap was bad, 3rd time they said they couldn’t figure out what the problem is, maybe a air pocket/bubble in cooling system. Now 4th time I had AAA tow it to them just as it is, didn’t add antifreeze or touch anything, told the service Dept. that it seems likely we have a bad headgasket and I do not want to have to bring it in again for same problem, they were understanding and gave us rental car this time. We live in Tehachapi, Ca 1 hour away from dealership, so like alot of people it’s not convenient to just swing by the dealership. But, like you mentioned in your headgasket article, it’s amazing that factory mechanics can’t figure out what is wrong, when so many 2.5l have headgasket problems, still waiting for diagnosis. Wish me luck, again thank you for your wealth of information, it’s good to be correctly informed. I am now unfortunately thinking about trading in/selling our Outback. for the next vechicle, the Outback suites our needs to a tee. Is there any problematic issues with the 3.6l auto trans combination, I think that is what we will be leaning towards next time, as I will be comforatable with 25ish mpg’s for the benefit of the extra power. Thank you for your assistance.
    Jeff Bishop

    1. Hello Jeff,

      I am sorry to hear that! Your 2010 Subaru Outback is the fist one I have heard of that has a potential failed Head gasket. The 2010 Outback uses a Semi Closed Deck Engine Block and MLS gaskets right from the factory so the head gasket thing should not plaque this engine but that doesn’t mean there wont be any issues.

      We do in fact service a 2010 that has over 120k on it, the only difference I can see is that we still change her oil every 3000 miles, and have also changed the coolant twice. One possible senario is that the cooling fan failure may have ultimately caused the head gasket failure. I know this is a pain, especially when the Dealer has no clue (and they wont for a while). I would suggest that once its repaired you drive it for a bit before moving on, you may feel differently after a month has passed after the repairs are complete.

      However I can share with you I drive the 2012 Outback 3.6r and do like the extra power it has as I go up a lot of Mountain passes here in the Northwest with our Subaru. We have done a few HG repairs to the 3.0l, still none to the 3.6 only some “oil out” type engine replacements from customers going to long on oil changes and not checking their oil. I think you would be happy with the 3.6r and wouldn’t ever suspect you would have a HG issue that early if at all.

      If you are inclined it would be good of you to repost once you have a diagnoses.

      Thanks for posting


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